Finding a Home for an animal you can't keep.
What are your options?
****Please see the pages that follow for specifics on the items listed below.****
What to do when you find a stray animal:
-
Check for a tag, & have a vet check for a microchip.
-
Notify all local animal shelters & vet offices in the area of the found animal.
-
Place a found ad in the local papers/check the lost ads as well.
-
Place flyers in the vicinity where the animal was found.
-
Keep the animal in a secure place, away from your pets, until it has been checked by a veterinarian.
If the owner cannot be found or if you are trying to place your own pet:
-
Have the animal checked by a vet & brought up to date on vaccinations.
-
Make sure the animal is spayed/neutered.
-
Place ads in local papers: always charge at least $25 for a cat & $45 for a dog.
Please see attached information regarding Bunchers"!
-
If the animal is a specific breed, search the web for that breed rescue group.
-
Network - Take flyers everywhere:
-
Veterinarians
-
Pet store bulletin boards
-
Your work
-
Church members
-
Friends & Family
-
Contact as many rescue agencies as possible. Most will be overloaded, but they may be able to put you in contact with someone who is looking for the kind of pet you are trying to place.
The Last Resort
-
If you must turn the animal over to the county animal shelter, claim first and/or last rights. First rights give you adoption privileges if the animal is not claimed by the owner, last rights gives you adoption privileges if the animal is not claimed or adopted & is due to be euthanized.
Preparing Good Flyers
-
Describe the appearance
-
Describe his/her nature and appealing qualities.
-
Include the pet's name
-
State that the pet is spayed or neutered.
-
Define any limitations, e.g. not good with cats/small children/ other dogs/other cats.
-
Use a good photograph. Color is best. Copy places like Kinko’s can help with these.
-
Be sure to put in your phone number, and time you can be reached.
-
Depending on the situation in your area, you might want to add "No Bunchers" to your ad.
Bunchers
are people who pose as prospective adopters, pretending to be loving and concerned. The pets they obtain are then sold to licensed B dealers who in turn
sell the pets to research laboratories
.
-
You may want to leave out some characteristic about the animal, so when a person calls claiming to be the owner, you can verify the animal is really theirs. Examples – gender or distinct markings or personality traits.
-
The flyer is an advertisement. Make it clear, fun and appealing.
Beware of Dishonest Callers
-
Beware of Bunchers!! See above.
-
Ask the caller to bring a photo of their pet to the meeting place.
-
Ask for their veterinarian’s phone #, and make a follow up call.
-
See how the animal reacts to the caller in person. If you are not satisfied, ask for more proof of ownership.
-
Get the owner's phone # & address.
Prepare the Animal
-
Spay or Neuter BEFORE giving to someone else, if you're able
-
Update vaccinations
-
Groom & bathe the animal so he/she looks their best
Resources
-
Breed Rescue Groups – search the web
(please note that they may not be able to take your animal, but can help with advice and
resources)
-
Kitten Care Information –
www.kittenrescue.org
-
The Guide to Handraising Kittens”, by Susan Easterly. Available from Amazon.com
-
STAF web site –
www.staf.org
-
Low Cost Spay/Neuter or Shots – Check with your veterinarian or phone book listings or contact us at
info@staf.org for information.
-
Information about children and dogs - "Child-Proofing your Dog" by Brian Kilcommons and Sarah Wilson. Published by Warner Books.
Place an Ad
-
Require an adoption fee. Bunchers (see above) will gravitate towards ads offering free pets.
-
Run the ad several times to reach a wide audience.
-
Sample Ads:
"Joe Cocker" is coming to town and wants to sing for you. Joe is a three-year-old neutered male cockapoo with a great personality. Loves kids and dogs, isn't as keen on cats! He has all his shots. Call Morris after 6 PM at 555-4674. Adoption fee required. No bunchers.
Persian cat with attitude. Martha thinks she rules the world! She would prefer a home where she is the only cat. She is gorgeous, and knows it. She loves to sit on laps and be petted. Adoption fee required. See her at the Petco on Broadway, Sat. 10th June from 10AM 'til 4 PM. Ask for Beth.
Shambu is the kind of companion that we all long to have. Loyal, playful, tender and kind best describes this beautiful orange tabby. He is 3- years-old, neutered and has all his shots. He prefers to be in an adult only home. Call Jeremy at 555-2189 before 11AM. Donation for my favorite animal charity required. No Bunchers.
Telephone Screening
When someone responds to your flyer or advertisement, you have an opportunity to interview them over the phone before introducing them to the animal. By doing so, you can eliminate unsuitable potential adopters early on. The following are some guidelines for helping you find the best possible new home for your pet or rescued animal. If the caller is a child, ask to speak to an adult. If they sound young, ask their age. In our experience, teenagers and students do not tend to have stable lives or living situations. If a teenager lives at home, then ask to speak to an adult. You are looking for a permanent new home. Young people tend to move around a lot: college, military, looking for work, etc. It is usually the animals who suffer in these situations. Use the occasion to educate the person. Suggest that they do not get a pet until they can provide a permanent, secure home. Obviously there are always exceptions to the rule. If you feel the caller can offer a lasting home, despite their age, then take it to the next stage of meeting them and reviewing their living situation. The following is a list of questions we suggest you ask the prospective adopter. Ask them in a conversational style, rather than as a questionnaire. For example: "This dog/cat is very special to me, and I am looking for just the right home for him/her, would you mind if I ask you a few questions about yourself and your home?"
1) Is the pet for you or someone else?
If the dog or cat is for someone else, then tell them that you need to speak directly to the prospective owner. A gift of a live animal for another person can be a terrible mistake. If the pet is for a child, then tell the person that the dog or cat needs to be seen as a family pet, not exclusively the child’s. Parents need to realize that they must be willing to take on the responsibility for the day to day care of the animal for the rest of its life. Children can be involved in the animals care, but often their attention span is sporadic. We have seen many pets turned in to shelters because the children have lost interest.
2) Do you live in a house/mobile home/apartment?
3) Does the situation have a yard (for dogs)?
4) Is the yard completely fenced?
5) Does it have a gate?
6) Will the dog or cat be an indoor or outdoor pet?
From the answers to these questions you can start to build a profile of the person and where they live.
The address alone can tell you a lot about the area they live in. If they do not have a fenced yard, then there is a possibility that the dog might end up being chained up outside. We consider this a cruel fate for any dog, and we are sure you will not want yours to end up this way. Will they be willing to walk the dog on a leash regularly? This point also applies to apartment dwellers. Many dogs and all cats do very well in apartments. The proximity encourages close companionship and bonding, whereas a yard can be used to ignore a dog. There are many services that will walk dogs during the day and there is even doggie day care.
7) Do you have children? If so, what are their ages?
Children can be either a blessing or a curse to a pet! Small children often do not know how to differentiate between a live animal and a stuffed one. And even the most vigilant parent can’t be watching the child all the time. We follow the Humane Society guideline of no puppies or kittens to families with children under the age of nine. People have a lot of problems with this! However, we have had direct experience with small children being hurt by puppies or kittens, because they treated them roughly or didn't know when to leave them alone. And then the animal, however reluctantly, is returned or taken to the pound. This will be your own judgment call with the pet you are placing.
An adult cat or dog that is used to being around small children makes a wonderful family pet. The animal will be too big for the child to hurt, and an adult animal is usually more tolerant of a toddlers inquiring hands pulling at his/her tail or ears. If the animal you are placing has had any kind of biting or nipping incident around children, it would be irresponsible to place that animal in a home with any children.
The prospective owner needs to be aware of the history of the animal, as even an adult only home may receive visits from grandchildren or neighbor kids. The child/animal bond is very special and can be of tremendous value in producing a compassionate, caring person, who will bring those qualities into his/ her whole life. So this decision to take on a family pet needs to be made with great care. We see a lot of kids learning that animals are disposable items to be gotten rid of when they become inconvenient, or when the family moves. We would rather they learned that the pet is as valued a member of the family as they are. We recommend a book called Child-Proofing your Dog by trainer, Brian Kilcommons and Sarah Wilson. Published by Warner Books. It is full of good information about children and dogs.
8) Have you had pets before? If so, what has happened to them?
Responses to these questions can be very revealing about the person's level of responsibility. We have found that letting people talk quite a bit in this area elicits the information. You might start by saying “Do you have other pets at home? What do you have?” From these answers you can determine whether the pet you are placing will fit into this household. If you are trying to place a dog who hates cats, and they have cats, this is obviously not a good choice. If they don't have pets now, ask if they have ever had them and where they are now. You might start to see a pattern. If they say, "Oh, my last three dogs were run over/poisoned/stolen etc." You are not looking at a responsible home. One negative incident in the past would not immediately rule that person out. Accidents can happen to even the most caring people. On the other hand, they might tell you of the pets they have had until they died of a ripe old age. This will tell you that these people are willing to make the commitment to an animal for its whole life.
9) How many hours would the animal be alone during the day?
The number of hours that an animal will be alone during the day needs to be taken into account. Young dogs and cats can get very lonely…and destructive! Dogs are pack animals and need a lot of companionship from either the family or another pet. Many adoptions do not work out for this reason. A lonely bored dog or puppy can chew through the couch, rip up the carpet, destroy the table legs, just for something to do! You get the idea. Prospective adopters need to be aware of this and be encouraged to make provisions for a young dog or cat while the family is away at work and school. Perhaps a neighbor or a local retired person could spend some time with the animal during the day. Locking a dog outside all day can present an ideal target for thieves, particularly in a big city. An ideal situation is to have a companion animal as a buddy, a doggie door into a dog-proofed area with lots of toys to chew on. Cats do not appear to need the pack in the same way as a dog, but anyone who has owned more than one cat knows what a difference companionship of their own kind makes to a cat.
10) Do you own your own home or are you renting? Does your lease allow pets? May we have your landlord's number?
If a person is renting, you will need to ensure that they have permission in writing to have a pet. Also you will need to determine if there are any size requirements, i.e. under 20 lbs for dogs. Again it is not fair to the pet you are placing to put him/her in a situation where he/she is at risk. We have known people try to sneak a pet by the landlord, only to be found out. And guess who has to go! So you are back where you started, or the animal ends up at the pound.
11) Are you willing to have me come to your home to see where the animal will be living?
If they are unwilling then it is an automatic no. If they are willing, we strongly recommend you do make the visit, for your own peace of mind. If you are placing a dog who is an escape artist and the person's fence has large holes in it, you know this will not be adequate to keep your guy in. Some discussion about repairs could solve the problem, but make sure they are done before the animal goes to live there. Promises are just that - promises- until the job is done. Seeing the other pets in the household will tell you a lot about the level of care your pet will receive.
12) Inside or outside cat?
Cats who go outside live for about two to three years on average. They are vulnerable to traffic accidents, attacks by dogs, accidental or deliberate poisonings, and exposure to Feline Leukemia and Feline AIDS. Not to mention that cats that go outside have a greater tendency to spray. A cat that stays indoors can live up to twenty years. Cats do very well as indoor pets, but some people like to build a cattery attached to the house, or screen in a porch so that their cats can enjoy the open air, and yet remain protected.
What happens next?
After you have asked your questions and received the answers you will have a good idea about the prospective owner and whether you feel he/she will make a good home for the pet you are placing. Of course, it is always possible that the answers you received are not truthful. Some people may answer in the way they think you want to hear rather than how it actually is. You will need to use your instincts.
And this is why it is important to meet the people in person and see their home.
Meeting the prospective owner
By the time you reach this stage, you will have found out quite a bit about the prospective owner and his/her suitability as a new home for the pet you are placing. You have some choices about where to introduce the animal to the new person. They could come over to your place, you could take the pet to theirs, or you could meet on neutral ground, like a park or a vets office. If the prospective owner has another dog and you are placing a dog, a park setting could be a good place to arrange a meeting.
Hopefully you will be as impressed with the prospective owner in person as you were on the phone. However, if there are some doubts in your mind you could mention that there are other people interested in seeing the pet and that you will get back to them. This can give you the opportunity to make a graceful exit without confrontation.
You will want to observe how they relate to the pet, and how the pet relates to them. This will give you a lot of information. It is fine to be concerned about your pet’s well-being and any reasonable person understands this. It is better to be safe than sorry. And we advise you do not give up the pet until you have checked the home and living situation.
If you decide to go ahead with the adoption you may want to use a contract like the one included with this booklet. This can be a safety net for both you and the new owner. Make out two copies of the contract and both of you can sign them. Leave one with them and take one with you. Also hand over any medical and vaccination records, and any special food, bowls or bedding.
Be sure to ask for a donation and see some form of identification. These will help protect against B dealers and bunchers who commonly use aliases. In order to make a profit, bunchers depend on getting animals for free. This is why it is important to charge a fee. (Generally a minimum of $45 for a dog and $25 for a cat) You may pass this on to your favorite charity.
Placing an animal using these procedures takes time, but your dog or cat has been a good and faithful companion to you. He/ she deserves the best new home you can find. You will sleep better knowing that your pet is happy, healthy and safe in their new home. Don't give up after just one or two interviews. If you persevere, you are sure to find a new owner eventually. If you are working on a time limit and that time expires with no home in sight, then consider boarding the animal to buy some more time. Some kennels run about $7 per day.
Once you have made a match, stay in touch. Call once or twice to see how things are going, particularly at the outset. Be careful not to bug the new owners, though. There is a time to let go and allow the owners to form their own bond with the animal. If there are any problems with the transition, remember that your veterinarian may also help with advice, training and solutions if necessary.
Whatever you do, don't just turn your pet loose in a residential neighborhood, the woods, or leave him/her tied up to a fence in the hopes that someone will find the pet. A domestic animal cannot fend for itself in a strange environment and some of the saddest sights we see are dogs dashing out to each car that comes along in the hope of its owner's return. These dogs are very hard to catch as they wait for the person who abandoned them as well as being subject to injury, disease, starvation and death.
INFANT KITTEN & PUPPY CARE
What To Do If You Find An Orphaned Kitten or Puppy
Infant animals, for whatever reason, are sometimes left motherless. These animals are very vulnerable and need very specific care. If you have found an abandoned infant animal, please consult a veterinarian immediately. When caring for them, you must take the place of their mother. You must clean them, keep them warm, feed them and stimulate elimination.
What you will need:
-
Nursing bottles designed specifically for infant animals
-
Kitten or Puppy milk replacement
-
A flea comb. (All of the above are available at most pet supply stores.)
-
A heating pad
-
Washcloth
-
Cotton balls
-
Thick rubber gloves to prevent your hands from being clawed, as kittens naturally knead when fed. (Unnecessary with puppies.)
Feeding your kitten or puppy
-
Be sure the bottle is sterilized.
This may be done by placing the nipple and empty bottle in a pan of boiling water for about twenty minutes.
-
Make a hole in the nipple with a sterile needle.
Check the size of the hole by holding the bottle upside down with liquid in it. The liquid should steadily drip out of the bottle without any pressure. If it comes out in a stream, the hole is too large. If it does not drip, the hole is too small.
-
The milk replacement should be room temperature.
-
You may want to wear gloves
in feeding your kitten, or otherwise protect your hands and clothing. Kittens knead by nature and can do quite a bit of damage in a single feeding if you are not careful. For puppies, you will probably not need gloves.
-
While holding the animal upright (as if he is standing), touch the bottle to the animal's lip and allow it to latch on and suckle.
Animals need to be in an upright position while eating. Never hold an animal on its back (like a human baby) to feed. Do not attempt to force feed, allow the kitten/puppy to stop when he/she has had enough. A healthy kitten/puppy will take approximately 8 cc of formula per ounce of body weight per day. If the animal takes any less than this, veterinary assistance is needed.
-
A one-week-old kitten/puppy needs to be fed every 2-3 hours.
Set your alarm clock at night. It's no fun, but it is necessary. By 2 weeks, they should be down to 4-6 hours between feedings.
-
If you're feeding multiple kittens/puppies, pay very close attention to their skin.
Young kittens/puppies will often suckle anything that’s available, including each other, especially the genital area. If they are injuring each other’s skin in any way, separate them, as this poses a risk of mutilation.
-
After the kitten/puppy stops nursing, he/she will need to be burped.
This can be accomplished by placing the kitten against your shoulder, much like a human baby, and pat your animal
very
gently on the back.
-
Use a damp cotton ball and gently stroke the animal's urethra and rectum. They should urinate and possibly defecate. A healthy kitten/puppy should defecate at least once per day.
Infant Kitten/Puppy Care, continued
Cleaning the animal
Infant kittens/puppies also need to be cleaned and kept free of fleas. Very young animals can be cleaned with a damp washcloth or cotton ball. Use a comb to remove any fleas. Fleas can make a very young animal become anemic quickly and it could die. Check its gums & if they are white, it needs to see a vet immediately. Older kittens/puppies can be bathed in a sink or small tub. Never use any flea sprays, flea baths or topical flea treatments on tiny animals.
Keeping the animal warm
Young animals are very sensitive to cold & heat. You should keep them on a heating pad, kept on low, with a nice layer of toweling over it. Not only do you not want them to get cold, but take care that they do not overheat. If they start panting, you definitely know they are too hot. Keep them away from drafty areas – a cat carrier works well to keep them out of danger. If they are newborn, you should keep them wrapped in a small towel while feeding them so they don't get chilled.
What NOT to do
-
Do NOT allow a kitten/puppy under three weeks to get cold.
They cannot regulate their body temperature.
-
Do not feed them cows milk.
They will suffer and possibly die from malnutrition, and they may also suffer from constipation or diarrhea if cows milk is used.
-
Do not attempt to force milk down their throats with an eyedropper or syringe
.
This can result in many problems, one of which being that they can aspirate the fluids. If your kitten/puppy does not latch on to the bottle and suckle, take it to a vet immediately. <
-
Do not hold an animal on its back to feed
.
Animals must be in an upright position, unlike a human baby.
-
Do not keep the kitten/puppy with other adult cats, dogs, small children or babies.
A tiny animal can be fatally injured with a single motion. Also keep in mind you should not allow your infant animal around any other cats or dogs you may have until he or she has been vet checked to be certain that he or she doesn't have a contagious disease.
-
Never use any flea sprays, flea baths or topical flea treatments on tiny animals.
Most kittens/puppies can be safely weaned by 8 weeks of age. Check with your veterinarian to be sure. If you do not plan on keeping your animal when he or she is weaned, please do not give him/her away for free. Free to good home kittens/puppies are at high risk for abuse and neglect. See the attached information for more details on finding a home.
When in doubt about the care or treatment of the animal,
always
consult a veterinarian.
Additional resources for kitten care
-
Kitten Care Handbook
This website offers a more comprehensive "handbook" on caring for tiny kittens.
-
The Guide to Handraising Kittens, by Susan Easterly.
Available from Amazon.com
